lowbad.com tutorial

• tutorial series 103 [hard air line installation] • note: to get a closer view click the picture
• this was performed on a 98 chevrolet S10 [featured] by natas from lowbad.com•

another first for lowbad.com hard line install but i think natas has done a real nice job on the install and the tutorial - w

pre install: parts needed
	Tools and parts to be seen later will include: Adel clips, air riveter, rivets, drill and tap.	a). at least 25’ of whatever size tubing you want. Four pieces of steel braided line with AN nuts on each end. This is easier to maneuver around airbag/cylinder locations. We used 3/8” galvanized steel tubing and AN#6 steel braided hose (also 3/8) b).Also needed are a double flaring tool kit and a tube bender that will accommodate your size of line.

01). sleeve, nut and AN Fitting

Make sure to also pick up sleeves, nuts and connector pieces to fit over the hard line and connect it to the steel braided. You will need two sleeves and two nuts per hard line cut, this makes it a little difficult to determine<until you start getting to it> how many to purchase, but you can always buy more (as long as you have another vehicle to go and do so) hehe All this can be purchased at most automotive stores, if you are unsure of any of the sizes, just ask an employee for help. We’re not guaranteeing they’ll help, but they might. Getting home and finding out that everything is the same size is a relief.

02). getting started

We are going to assume that you have changed fittings and airline before. (Basic stuff) Purchase 1 fitting per bag/cylinder that corresponds with the port size and make sure it has an AN fitting on the other end to allow you to easily fit the steel braided hose on. In our case we had a 3/8” threaded end<fits into bag/cylinder> and the opposite end was AN#6<also 3/8> that connects to the steel braided line. Be sure to use Teflon tape on the fitting to the bag/cylinder. It also wouldn’t hurt to use Teflon Pipe Thread Sealant, a paste like substance. <both of these will ensure a proper seal> Get your bag/cylinder bolted back into place with the 2’of steel braided line attached. You can maneuver the line around to determine where to start the hard line.

03). Cutting the hard line

a). Take some measurements first so you don’t just start cutting like a movie director. Get out the tubing cutter and place the tubing against the inside rollers < don’t worry, you’ll see ‘em > Turn the end piece on cutter until it firmly holds the tubing against the cutter. Spin cutter around tubing once or twice and tighten the end up firmly again and roll it around the tubing. The tubing should be cut by now and you’re ready for the next step.

b). The inside of the tubing is a bit rough and needs to be reamed out <smooth> so it will be uniform in shape when you actually begin to flare it. The tubing cutter has a retractable reamer on it, stick reamer inside tubing and REAM ! <haha turn> This will remove any hard edges. Make sure to do this on both ends.

04a). Flaring the ends
	Slide sleeve and nut over tubing, we suggest using a little electrical tape to keep it in place a few inches from each end. <Refer to 2nd pic> Once ends are flared you won’t be able to get a sleeve or nut on. Get the flaring bar and adapter out. Tighten handle on flaring bar into a vise. This will hold it better than any friend ever could. Find the adapter that fits your size. <3/8” for our application> Place the flaring adapter upside down next to the hole that you’re going to slide the tubing through<it will say ¼, 3/8, ½ etc> Now slide the tubing through and make it sit just a little under the thickness of the adapter. Remove adapter and tighten down wing nuts on flaring bar, this will hold the tubing in place as it’s flared.

04b). Flaring the ends
	Now the fun starts. Get the size adapter you need and turn it over <looks like a T> and slide the skinny end into the tubing. Next get the flaring yoke <yeah, it’s that funny looking tool that kicks ass> and turn it sideways and slide it over the flaring bar. Position it over the adapter and turn the top until it snugs onto the adapter. Everything is ready to really tighten down now. Start twisting the top of the yoke until the adapter < the T looking thing> is resting against the flaring bar. You shouldn’t be able to turn the yoke anymore at this point.

04c and d). Flaring the ends
		c). Slide yoke over and remove the <T> adapter. Now you have a partially flared end. <how cute> d). Slide the yoke back over and center it over the tubing. Tighten down until flaring cone penetrates the tube. Be a man and tighten the yoke until it stops.

04e). Flaring the ends
	e). Remove the yoke, loosen the flaring bar and pull the tubing out. Make sure both ends are flared and have a sleeve and nut for each end. The nut will later be tightened to the AN#6 fittings which connects to steel braided line and other hard line. No Teflon is required for AN fittings because they are flared and should not leak. This is also a typical hydraulic line setup.

05). Bending the tubing
	You should take some measurements under your vehicle and get an idea of what has to go where. Find your steel braided hose coming from your bags/cylinder and start from there. It’s up to you how and where to run all the line <from bags to valves and air tank/s> The bender has indicator lines on it that allows you to see the degree of bend that you want or are currently at. Tape sleeve and nut at each end of the tubing, you don’t want them to slide down while you’re bending the piece. If this happens they may become stuck and useless. The ends are already flared so you just can’t add more. We bent a test piece to fit under the truck, that’s why the sleeve and nut aren’t on there in the pic. - see pic 02). as a sample of steel braided hose fitting to hard line <don’t that look nice now? >

06). Securing tools
		Well, now that you’re pissed off because one of the wing nuts on the flaring bar broke and made things 5X harder, you’re ready to get them lines in place. You are going to need a drill & bit, rivets, a rivet gun <is nice>, adel clips and drill and tap<whatever size you want to use> The rest is really up to you, as far as where and how to run the line. Try to keep it away from exhaust as much as possible.

07). Securing the line in place

a). Here is a picture of 2’ of steel braided line routed from a front air bag. You should drill and tap every adel clip location for steel braided hose only. We used allen head bolts on all steel braided line adel clips, this makes it easier to remove and put back in the future. We recommend riveting all hard lines because they should never need to be removed.

b). Here is a picture of that same steel braided line from the picture above. It connects to the steel tubing that is secured under the vehicle.

08). The finished product
		Make sure all the line is tucked under your vehicle so that it won’t get destroyed when your vehicle is laying down. If you’ve made it this far in the tutorial then you won’t need further instruction on connecting your valves and air tanks etc. Hopefully this has been helpful, I know we’ve left some steps out but we’re confident in our reader. <and or readers> Good Luck & Good Night.